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Proofing Sourdough In The Fridge

Proofing sourdough in the fridge is a little-known secret that can make your sourdough baking easier and more successful. Learn what proofing is, why you should proof in the fridge, and how long to proof sourdough in the fridge.

You’ve probably heard that proofing your sourdough in the fridge is one of the best ways to make a loaf with an incredible flavor and texture.

But what does that mean, exactly? And how do you go about doing it?

I'm here to answer all of those questions and some you didn't even know you had!

Let’s get started!

Two plastic wrapped bannetons in a fridge.
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What Is Proofing?

In both regular (yeasted) bread making and sourdough baking, proofing refers to the rise after shaping. During yeasted baking it's often called the final rise.

During the proofing process, the shaped dough is allowed to rest and rise, usually until it doubles in size. This allows the yeast to do its job and create carbon dioxide gas, stretching the gluten in the dough, and trapping the gas in bubbles within the bread.

This step is critically important for all bread or leavened goods, to give them a light, airy texture, not to mention the flavor! Without proofing, our bread would be flat, dense, and taste bland.

Sourdough proofing in a banneton.

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Why Proof Sourdough In The Fridge

In most of my sourdough recipes, I give the option to proof at room temperature for 1-3 hours or place in the fridge for a cold ferment. Whenever I have the option of choosing room temperature or proofing in the fridge, I always choose the fridge!

Proofing sourdough at cold temperatures is often called a cold retard, because it slows down the final rise process.

So why proof sourdough in the fridge?

Two loaves of sourdough in a banneton.

1. Better Flavor:

Dough that has been proofed in the fridge has a more complex, sourer flavor than room temperature proofed dough. When the bread is proofing at room temperature, the dough develops faster than the flavor, by slowing it down and proofing in the fridge, we are allowing the flavor to develop in time with the dough.

This is a direct result of the temperature slowing down the yeast's fermentation activity, but the bacteria in the starter are less dependent on the temperature and they are able to continue breaking down starches into lactic and acetic acids, giving us that sour tang we can't get enough of!

2. Easier To Handle:

Cold dough is much much easier to handle. It's easier to flip out of your banneton, it's easier to score, it's just easier to work with.

Warm dough tends to flatten once turned out of its banneton, giving you less time to flip it, score it, and transfer it to a dutch oven. The lame also tends to stick to the warm dough.

Cold dough is less urgent, it resists spreading for longer, it's by far easier to score, and because it's more sturdy, it's easier to get into your dutch oven!

Scoring sourdough.

3. Adds Flexibility:

Sourdough is a process, a process I've come to truly enjoy, but it still takes a while.

Allowing your sourdough to cold retard in the fridge puts you back in the driver's seat when it comes to baking sourdough.

Proofing in the fridge extends your proofing window from 1-3 hours to days!

You can bake that bread on your schedule, not the dough's!

4. Better Crust + Crumb:

This one might be splitting hairs a little bit, but a cold fermented dough usually has a superior crust and crumb to a sourdough proofed at room temperature.

Baking cold sourdough tends to give that delicious, blistered crust that's somehow crispy but also delicate at the same time. It's 12/10 perfect.

The crumb is better because it takes time for gluten development in the dough especially with recipes that don't incorporate kneading to speed it up. But this process is not temperature dependant.

Allowing the sourdough to proof in the fridge slows the yeast down, allowing gluten development to catch up to the gasses released making for better-leavened bread and crumb.

Sliced sourdough loaves.

How To Proof Sourdough In The Fridge

This is the easy part!

  1. Follow the recipe as written until you get to the final shaping stage.
  2. Shape the dough as desired, in a boule or batard. Place the shaped loaf into a banneton or banneton alternative.
  3. Cover the banneton with a plastic shower cap, or slide into a plastic bag.
  4. Place the covered banneton into the fridge for your desired length of time.
  5. When ready to bake, simply preheat oven and dutch oven. Once the oven is preheated, you can bake the sourdough straight from the fridge.
Wrapped banneton with sourdough in the fridge.

How Long To Proof Sourdough In The Fridge

While there is a wide range of times that your sourdough can be proofed in the fridge and there is no right or wrong answer, keep your cold retard time frame within reason.

While a short 2-hour cold ferment will do nothing for the flavor, it can help if you have to pick up the kids from school while you should be baking!

A super long 84-hour cold retard is probably too long and will result in over-proofed bread that lacks energy for decent oven spring.

I find the sweet spot for me and my starter is 24-48 hours.

This might take some trial and error to nail it down to your liking, but I'd start with 18-24 hours!

Blistered crust on sourdough loaf.

My Preferences For Proofing In The Fridge

For this post, I made 2 identical batches of sourdough using my small loaf sourdough recipe at the same time, everything was done exactly the same, except the proofing time.

My findings may surprise you, but my favourite fridge proofing time, for my starter, is 48 hours. The loaf with the large air pockets was proofed for 24 hours in the fridge and the loaf with the smaller pockets was proofed 48 hours - its crumb was a lot more open than the photos show, it was likely just cut in the worst spot!

In the photo below, the crumb is actually slightly underdeveloped in the loaf with the large air pockets. This was apparent in the texture as well. The longer fermented bread was lighter and airier, in addition to having a more pleasing mildly sour taste, while the 24-hour cold fermented loaf lacked depth and complexity in the flavor.

The 48-hour bread also had a better oven spring and bloomed more at the score, this is apparent in the overhead photos below.

Cross section of sourdough loaves to show crumb after proofing in fridge.

FAQ

I don't have a banneton, can I still proof my sourdough in the fridge?

Heck yes! Sourdough is a super adaptable recipe, and I made it for over a year without a banneton. Here's a list of banneton alternatives.

Do I need to proof my sourdough in the fridge? Or can I do it at room temperature?

You're totally able to proof at room temperature, it just occurs quickly, between 1 and 3 hours, usually, so be prepared to bake shortly after the final shaping.

What is cold retard or cold ferment? Are they the same?

A cold retard is simply the act of proofing your sourdough bread at cold temperatures (around 34f). Because the low temperature slows the yeast activity in the dough, it is called retarding. Cold fermenting and cold retarding are two different names for the same process.

The slowed fermentation rate is why I recommend storing your sourdough starter in the fridge if you're an infrequent baker!

Should I cover my dough during a cold ferment?

Absolutely! Please cover your dough. Use a dedicated shower cap or even a recycled bread bag! The fridge can be a very drying place, due to the forced air inside to keep the temperature constant, this will dry out your bread and affect its oven spring and potentially ruin that irresistible crust!

When should I be putting my dough into the fridge for the cold retard?

As soon as you've finished shaping the dough and placing it into its banneton or rising bowl, cover it up, and chuck it in the fridge! The longer the dough is left at room temperature, the longer the yeast has to consume the flour and the more likely that the dough will over-proof.

So pop it into the fridge as soon as the final shape is done!

Will my sourdough double in size if it's cold fermented?

It will not!

But don't be fooled, that doesn't mean that it won't puff up during baking. The cold temperature of the fridge slows down the yeast so the bacteria in the bread have time to work and create sour flavors while the gluten develops. Your bread will still rise beautifully and have a great oven spring because the yeast hasn't consumed all the available food, they'll reactivate during the baking process.

Sourdough loaves on a wooden board.

What Are You Waiting For?!

If you haven't been proofing your sourdough in the fridge, I hope this has empowered you to try it!

And if you have, I'd love to hear your timing sweet spot in the comments below!

Pin This Guide To Proofing Sourdough In The Fridge!

Why you should proof sourdough in the fridge pinterest graphic.
Share Your Thoughts

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Connie

Friday 6th of January 2023

So I just want to make sure I’m understanding this correctly, you don’t proof at room temperature at all? You proof all in the fridge after you do the stretch and folds?

Ally

Tuesday 17th of January 2023

Yes, that's exactly right! You can proof it at room temp then toss in the fridge or inverse it and toss it in the fridge then bring it to room temp before baking if you like? It takes a long time for the dough to fully chill and it continues to proof while warm in the fridge for a couple of hours I'm sure.

Sarah

Monday 12th of December 2022

Hi! Thanks for this. What I do is stretch and folds and then I let it proof for 4-6 hours in the same bowl. I find that gives it amazing sour flavor. Then I shape and let it sit for a just a bit so I can zipper seal the loaves. Then I cover and put in the fridge usually for 12-18 hours depending on my day. They come out beautifully. I once let them puff in the banneton on the counter after shaping and when I baked them they were so flat. It was so long a room temp ferment.

Kate Greenway

Monday 28th of November 2022

Thank you so much for this article! I’m having trouble with my bread not springing in the oven after I cold ferment. Some days I need extra time before I bake , and on those days- I put the shaped dough in the fridge for about 4 hours- then I let it rise on the counter for an hour or so before I put it in the oven. Each time I cold ferment- my bread always comes out super dense. Any thoughts about why? Could I be over proofing? Under proofing? Should it not sit on the counter after being in the fridge? Thanks!

Ally

Sunday 4th of December 2022

I would guess, and I don't know without seeing the crumb, that it's under-fermented. Either your starter was sluggish when you used it to make bread (guilty) or it was not proofed long enough, or a combination of both. As soon as you place that sourdough in the fridge and the dough is completely cooled, the fermentation slows considerably - that said, chilling it for 4 hours is unlikely to make a huge difference, and it probably takes at least that long for the bread to chill throughout.

What is the process and timings you use for your bread making? Under fermentation can also be caused by too short of a bulk ferment during the stretch/fold/shape stages.

Julie Markovitz

Tuesday 4th of October 2022

Hi! Can I proof shaped sourdough rye pumpernickel in a plastic bag covered banneton in the fridge?

Ally

Friday 7th of October 2022

Yes absolutely!

Emma

Saturday 30th of July 2022

Wrong! Do NOT cover your sourdough loaf with plastic of ANY kind before putting it into the fridge! Leave it uncovered in the banneton. Sourdough bread is a high hydration dough which will not “dry out”. Instead m it will develop a “skin” that goes into giving your loaf a beautiful, crisp crust.

Susan

Monday 14th of November 2022

I've been covering it with a damp towel I keep for that purpose. Should I skip that?

Ally

Friday 5th of August 2022

Hey Emma - that's the cool thing about baking - there's more than one method that works! I haven't tried to leave them uncovered, but I might next time, but that said, the bags I use aren't air-tight, and my loaves definitely develop a skin.

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